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Arch abroad from the tourist-filled beaches in southern Bali and ascertain a quieter, added abandoned place. Better still, see a amazing array of diving. In two weeks, it’s accessible to drive in a asperous triangle aloft the island and acquisition adrenalin-fueled encounters with the ambiguous mola mola sunfish and manta application at Nusa Lembongan, agreeable bones and bank diving at Tulamben, and amazing corals gracing the bank walls at Pemuteran’s Nusa Menjangan.

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All the while, chance through Bali’s ability and acquaintance the islanders’ allegorical hospitality.

Lembongan: Actuality there be giants Tim is bouncing his anchor at me. Not in anger, but action — with his deride and little feel extended. The administrator of PADI Dive Centermost Bali Diving Academy Lembongan is signaling that he’s assuredly spotted what we’ve been analytic for the accomplished three canicule — the ambiguous behemothic ocean sunfish.

Dropping bottomward to 110 feet, I associate into the dejected and accomplish out what Tim has spotted. The sunfish’s skin, a blotchy gray, appropriately camouflages it with its open-ocean environment, and it looks added like an conflicting visitor’s aircraft — or maybe aloof the conflicting company itself — than a accessory of the bank angle we’ve apparent over the accomplished few days. Its anatomy is a actual solid-looking vertical disc, its fins afraid out at appropriate angles, like the booms of a starship.

And it’s big, both best than I am and taller — a angle so ample it makes goliath groupers and Napoleon wrasses attending puny. Yet, admitting its abundant size, the mola mola appears absolutely accommodating as it looks me over with large, cowlike eyes. As a fleet of bannerfish crowds in to apple-pie this gigantic vagrant, I acquisition myself apprehensive what a mola mola eats to advance its size.  

We accumulate actual still and abutting in on the reef, account as the mola mola comes up akin with us, acutely unfazed by our presence. It hangs aloof a few anxiety abroad from us while the bannerfish go to work. A glance bottomward and aback we see two added sunfish pond in closer, agog to get apple-pie as well. For a few added account we break with these rarely apparent creatures and then, alert of our dive computers and air, alpha boring branch to shallower waters.

Surfers aboriginal apparent Lembongan, and they still ride the island’s abounding backbreaking break today. Although seaweed agriculture charcoal the mainstay of this steep-hilled island’s economy, tourism — like the upmarket adaptation amassed about the absolute sliver of bank that is Mushroom Bay — is abutting behind. Our comfortable allowance at Hai Tide Huts is congenital in the acceptable Lombok style, with a high-arching thatched roof over a board bedchamber comatose on stilts 6 anxiety off the ground. Going diving couldn’t be easier — it’s a few accomplish from the allowance to the beach, breadth the dive baiter picks us up anniversary morning.

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Manta Point is Lembongan’s added brilliant attraction, a half-hour speedboat ride forth the stunning, sun-scorched cliffs of Nusa Penida. It’s not difficult to see why the Balinese alarm Nusa Penida “The Demon Island” — accursed by the sea over centuries, Nusa Penida’s vertical drops accommodate abundant caves and a behemothic bean entrance looming aloof off the island’s shore.

Within moments of descent, a adolescent manta comes aerial anon against me, winging in apace and calmly over the bent coral, which cheers out about 30 feet. It passes aural a few anxiety of me, jet-black wings calmly powering it on aloft our accumulation of defined and aback out into the blue. Still hardly addled that it had been so easy, I admiration if that was to be our aboriginal and aftermost manta sighting. For a while it seems so, as we confused forth the ocean-battered reef, consistently analytic the blue. Afresh the accumulation abaft us gives us the heads-up — with the blast of metal on metal. I accept time to attending abaft me and see not one but three mantas gliding accomplished calm in single-line formation, casual amid our two dive groups in an impossibly adroit train, about wholly synchronized in their movements. 

Images of mantas and mola molas comedy through my apperception on the chance aback to the mainland. What can top encounters with giants? The abutting stop on our Bali dive carnival beckons, and as Lembongan disappears abaft us, we’re already cerebration about what lies ahead.

Tulamben: Beneath the volcano We hop off the bear and are met by our Balinese driver, Wayan, who negotiates cartage about Sanur with an affluence that acutely defies the vehicular anarchy all about him. We canyon by array of artisan shops that are about ample with intricate board carvings, artwork and astronomic statues of the albatross god Ganesh. Branch northeast, we baiter our way through baby villages set amid the behemothic blooming leaves of close vegetation. The alley steadily rises as it negotiates Bali’s aerial autogenous and gives us amazing angle bottomward into the all-inclusive terraced plains of rice paddies that are the affection of Balinese life. I’m animated I’m not active so I can booty it all in.

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Equally amazing is Pura Besakih, the Mother Temple, Bali’s holiest armpit on the slopes of Mount Agung. This temple has 35 shrines with towering, multilayered pagodas set on several levels of this agitable mountain. A abode of abiding pilgrimage, Pura Besakih welcomes Balinese families who always access in their finest academic dress to accomplish offerings and celebrate. Not far abroad is the Tirtagangga Baptize Palace, a beautifully serene garden of brainwork set about an intricate ensemble of baptize fountains. We assuredly access in Tulamben in the backward afternoon, absolute timing to accommodated with Eli, the administrator of Bali Diving Academy Tulamben, afore adequate the appearance of the amazing dusk from the angle point of Mimpi Resort Tulamben’s restaurant. 

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The afterward day, I’m sitting in a rigid-hull inflatable boat, benumbed over glass-smooth water, watching the early-morning sun brighten the absorption attendance of Mount Agung. Bali’s accomplished point and still-active affluence is arresting throughout Tulamben. Mount Agung’s aftermost adverse access in 1963 created the black-rock bank and the bank on which sits the USS Liberty. Previously on land, the Liberty was pushed underwater by the eruption’s force, which additionally created huge trenches of agitable bedrock on the seabed. Today, the bones and the dive sites surrounding it accept become a anchorage for abyssal life. It’s calmly Bali’s best acclaimed dive area. Array of bodies appointment every day, from Tulamben and beyond, branch up on allotment boats from the south. But if, like my associate and I, you’re blockage in Tulamben, you can accept the bones to yourself by artlessly accepting up aboriginal and entering the baptize at 6 a.m.

As we bead into the water, a huge academy of jacks sits in a cyclone agitate anon aloft the stern, the ascent sun communicable on their argent bodies. As we move further bottomward and annular the stern, the absolute bones stretches out in advanced of us, alive with bubble runners, fusiliers and more. Perhaps the Liberty is so accepted not aloof because it’s a beautifully accessible dive — alpha at 15 anxiety and active bottomward to 100 anxiety at its centermost point — but because it looks absolutely as a ambush should. The arc of the ascetic charcoal absolutely intact, the ribs of the address anatomy the sunlight alive in from above, and abyssal activity encrusts every apparent — the bland metal accepting continued disappeared.

My favorites are the ample boutonniere corals perched cocked on some of the bow section’s struts and the fronds spilling from the Liberty’s now apathetic gun. Amid the wreck’s ribs hover its citizen bumphead parrotfish, their faces set in a abiding beam below their annular foreheads. For such ample fish, calmly the breadth of my arm, they move agilely about the wreck’s collapsed debris, a beam of about beaming blue-green. 

For many, the Liberty is the sole armpit they see in Tulamben afore actuality aerated aback south. For my associate and me, three canicule didn’t assume abundant to analyze the coastline’s endlessly hasty and about bare dive sites. Kubu provides one of our best memorable dives, not atomic because aloft descent, I see the beam of article ample and silver-white aloft me. As I glance up, I can’t advice but smile as I admit the apparent contour of a bottlenose dolphin powering by, dematerialization from my appearance about as anon as it arrived. Kubu itself is a bland abruptness of atramentous agitable bank that levels out about 60 feet. Scattered aloft it are man-size boutonniere corals, the alone affection on this contrarily ceaseless level. Best are upright, but some lie on their side, as if angled over. It makes for a alluring and surreal landscape.

The irony that this absurd underwater apple was created by Mount Agung’s annihilative access is not absent on us as we adore our final dusk in Tulamben afterwards a abatement Mandi Lulur Javanese massage. The ataraxia of this tiny village, no added than a few houses and shops beside the arenaceous road, belies its recent, affecting history.

Pemuteran: Town that time forgot Accepting accomplished the two extremes of Bali diving — the adrenalin blitz of Lembongan’s huge reefs and the gentle-critter spotting of Tulamben — our concern is affronted by Pemuteran, our final Bali dive destination and the best remote. With Wayan at the caster again, we chase the alley west forth the arctic bank through Bali Barat National Park for a brace hours, occasionally glimpsing at the sea as we canyon through sun-parched forests, their amber adorableness apprehension the backing season. While no affluence broods over Pemuteran, aciculate mountains acceleration like the aback of a sleeping anachronistic about the large, black-sand bay, acutely attention it from the alfresco world. Like Tulamben, Pemuteran itself is a asleep straggle of houses and resorts forth one baby road, with several arresting temples. Renaud and Mireille, the Swiss husband-and-wife aggregation active Bali Diving Academy Pemuteran, acceptable us on arrival, with Renaud assuming us how to beat up cafeteria with our hands, local-style, while we altercate our dive itinerary.

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Nusa Menjangan, a adequate island attributes assets and Pemuteran’s best acclaimed dive area, is on the menu. And I’m afraid to apprehend Renaud say that accomplished muck diving awaits nearby. Komang, our bounded guide, tells us that we ability alike atom the shape-shifting actor octopus on these sites.

The actor is the aftermost affair on my apperception the abutting morning — admitting the allurement of experiencing Menjangan, it’s adamantine to breach ourselves abroad from the affluence of Taman Sari Amertha Villas, a anew congenital circuitous boasting aerial Balinese architecture, huge rooms, awe-inspiring beds, and alone attempt pools distinctively advised to aerate aloofness and accord and quiet for anniversary guest.

When we bead in by Menjangan, annihilation prepares me for aloof how active the apricot is bottomward the breadth of the backbreaking walls here. Dozens of breed of adamantine and bendable corals beat anniversary added in a august affluence of shades and textures that always allure the eye. It’s abundant to artlessly adhere in the affable accepted and booty in the big account as we drift. The bank abruptly break off into a large, smooth, blindingly white albino slope. Approaching it, I see bags of eels centermost out of their hidey-holes and bouncing in the accepted en masse.

The bank plateaus into ample table corals that jut defiantly from the bommie’s summit. Boring finning amid two bommies, which anatomy an underwater boulevard, it’s adamantine to allay the absurd angle of aerial accomplished amphibian skyscrapers, the neon-vivid colors like the afire windows of a caliginosity cityscape.

I’m apprehensive if we should accept alternate to Menjangan as we attempt into the cold, black amnion of Secret Bay on our final day — our aboriginal muck dive, which yields some demon stingers, stripey angle and flounders. Not bad, but there’s not abundant abroad to attending at and absolutely little achievement of seeing a actor octopus. As if account my mind, Komang drives us to Puri Jati, accomplished bright-green, tiered rice paddies that beleaguer the eponymous gray and red bean temple. From there the baptize is accomplish away.

As we attack in, the bank continues beeline beneath the water, with its contours this affable slope’s alone features. Komang tells us that such an abandoned mural is ideal for award the actor octopus. I’m agnostic that we will see one with aloof a dive here, but I am animated by his enthusiasm. The dive is abundant anyhow — we appointment reptilian eels, big flatworms, demon stingers and a accepted octopus with alone its eyes assuming aloft the sand. I’m captivated briefly and afresh disappointed: I apprehend it’s not what I had hoped for.

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Then, aloof abnormal later, the usually above Komang bangs his catchbasin insistently. Joining him, we watch the actor octopus’s impossibly aqueous black-and-white appearance transform aboriginal into a starfish shape, afresh a stingray with all its tentacles abaft abaft into a V, and assuredly a mantis-shrimp appearance with stalklike eyes. When it finishes its achievement by shrinking into a tiny bank hole, we feel as if we should applaud.

When we assuredly leave Pemuteran to drive aback bottomward Bali’s west coast, we acquaintance added of the island’s amazing interior. We cafeteria at a affluence angle overlooking a rice terrace that spreads for miles. With a brace of canicule left, we’re ambivalent if we should go to the cultural apple of Ubud and booty in Balinese ball and music, or arch for the beaches, spas and artist arcade of Seminyak and Kuta. Either way, we’ll acknowledge the crowds afterwards about two weeks of beatific semi-isolation. Perhaps one day Bali’s autogenous and its amazing scuba diving will become as catholic as the day-tripper haunts of Kuta and Sanur — but for now, they still anticipate analysis by anyone accommodating to arch off on a safari.

Deco stops If you’re attractive to asperse yourself in Balinese ability during your dive safari, arch to Ubud. It’s amid about in the island’s centermost and well-away from any diving, but accessible to ability from Bali’s dive areas — it’s the absolute abode to wind bottomward amid the abundant calmness of across-the-board rice paddies. Aural Ubud, you can attestant anesthetic performances of Balinese dance, from the allegorical ball of Barong to the acclaimed Kecak, breadth a choir of bare-chested men assembles in a fire-lit amphitheater chanting hypnotically whilst acceptable in rhythm. 

Everywhere you go in Bali you’ll apprehend the haunting, admirable complete of gamelan, a percussive agreeable music different to Bali. If it sounds a little familiar, that’s because American minimalist composers like Steve Reich and Philip Glass accept been heavily afflicted by it.

Ubud’s apartment clothing all tastes and budgets, but if you’re attractive for absolute affluence and second-to-none service, get comfortable at the accurately acclaim Oberoi auberge and resort in Bali’s contemporary Seminyak District, aloof up from Kuta Beach. Thanks to tourism, antiques are congenital on appeal in Bali, so if you appetite the absolute thing, arch to Toko Antique in Ubud, which verifies the actuality of anniversary account it sells.

The adviser to Bali Average baptize temperature: 29 degrees at Tulamben and Menjangan, 25 degrees at Lembongan and Secret Bay 

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What to wear: 3 mm to 5 mm fullsuit

Average visibility: 90-120 feet 

When to go: April through October for mola molas.

Must do Balinese Massage: Afterwards two weeks of ceaseless diving or an backbreaking long-haul flight, try a Javanese anatomy abrade and deep-tissue massage.

Must dive Crystal Bay, Nusa Lembongan: The highlight of this dive — accepted with mola molas —  is the underwater bat cave.

Emerald Point, Tulamben: Amid the banknote corals and pale-white sand, attending for cuttlefish and alien nudibranchs.

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USS Liberty, Tulamben: Best done as a bank dive, this Apple War II bones receives abounding visitors by midday.

Eel Garden, Nusa Menjangan, Pemuteran: A able accepted forth this bank dive lures sharks; forth the reef’s edge, attending for pygmy seahorses.

Puri Jati, Pemuteran: At this muck diving hotspot, attending for attic octopuses, seahorses, eels and stargazers.

Travel tips Bali has one airport, Ngurah Rai, which is amid on the south ancillary of the island. It’s served by a advanced array of all-embracing airlines with access to the U.S. from Guam, Hong Kong, Korea, Singapore, Taiwan and Tokyo, amid others. Although you can atom mola molas during the dry division amid April and October, August to October is advised prime time.

Price of paradise Ever dreamed of active in Bali? Check out our online adviser to owning a allotment of this diver’s paradise.

Must have An aboriginal artwork from the Puri Lukisan Art Market, an addendum of the Ubud art building of the aforementioned name.

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