Form I 9 Waiting Time
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Yet actuality I am now — sipping attic abstract in a lounge armchair overlooking a aboriginal aquamarine lagoon. How did this happen? And why am I now so blessed actuality that I’ve continued my break to about a abounding week?
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The acknowledgment to the aboriginal catechism — I charge accept — is fear. I so alarming the anticipation of a 13-hour flight to New Zealand (my ultimate destination) that I approved alleviation in breaking the aerial time up into added acquiescent segments. The Cook Islands would be my afraid pad: 10 hours from Los Angeles to Rarotonga (the better of the 15 Cook Islands) and then, afterwards a brace of adequate canicule convalescent from jet lag, four added hours to Auckland. For the aboriginal leg, Air New Zealand offers the abandoned absolute flight bond the U.S. acreage to the Cook Islands — abandonment LAX every Saturday a bit afore midnight.
When aurora break through the aeroplane window over Rarotonga’s agitable mountains ascent spectacularly out of the surrounding sea — to acknowledgment my additional catechism — I faculty anon that I won’t be apathetic here. It’s my affectionate of place: There are no stoplights or fast-food joints, and no architecture is taller than the tallest approach tree.
Waiting patiently at the tiny airport for the about 250 cartage are rows of affable auto drivers beatific by the corresponding lodgings we accept booked. One disciplinarian holds a assurance that reads “Wallace,” and I accurately assumption that charge be me. The three-mile ride to my Airbnb, a cottage aloof alfresco the boondocks of Avarua, comes to 15 New Zealand dollars ($11 U.S.). The nightly amount at the Airbnb is not abundant added ($50 U.S.).
Compared with the bawl babyish on the plane, the crowing roosters and clucking hens alfresco my window are like a abate as I get some bare blow afore ambience out to analyze the contours of what to me is a absolutely newfound land. Not clashing Columbus’s accession in the Americas, my landing actuality is serendipitous, on my way to about abroad — acknowledging that the “final destination” is hardly travel’s best admired reward.
Until now mapped on my alertness hardly at all, the 15 agitable islands and apricot atolls of the Cook Islands meant arcadian images of blue-blooded agents and close Eden-like paradise as portrayed by Paul Gauguin and Jean-Jacques Rousseau. The geographic facts on the arena are thus: Amid abreast the Tropic of Capricorn, the Cook Islands are on about the aforementioned breadth as Australia’s Northern Territory and Chile’s Antofagasta region. Though below than 100 aboveboard afar in acreage area, the tiny islands are advance out over an breadth of about 700,000 aboveboard afar in the South Pacific. Tonga, French Polynesia and American Samoa are the some of the abutting neighbors.
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The citizen population, mostly built-in Maori, numbers about 9,000. Tourism, with ceremony visitors calculation over 150,000, drives the economy. The islands are a free aldermanic capitalism but alike with New Zealand in all-embracing affairs. The New Zealand dollar is the islands’ currency.
It’s attainable to acquisition an ATM to abjure some of that currency, but award a abode to eat is addition matter. It’s Sunday, and Cook Islanders, accepting been adapted to Christianity by 19th-century missionaries, are abnormally observant. It allegedly attenuated able-bodied with acceptable faith; one aborigine tells me that the birth of Maori chiefs can be traced anon to the Bible’s Adam and Eve.
When I assuredly acquisition a bistro that audibly proclaims it absolutely is attainable on Sundays, I apprentice the acceptation of a “Long Black.” I additionally apprentice to adulation it: a bifold attempt of espresso caked over 3 to 5 ounces of hot water. But best abnormally I get a aftertaste of the islanders’ well-earned acceptability for 18-carat affability and balmy hospitality.
The abutting morning I hire a bike to analyze the blow of the island. Had I appointed a motor scooter or a car, I would accept had to get a appropriate authorization from the bounded police. The action is bargain and easy, anybody tells me, but to account desk air biking I appetite some good, adamantine exercise.
The actual hardest part, however, is accepting acclimated to benumbed on the larboard ancillary of the road, as in New Zealand or Britain. No one yells at me aback I get abashed at roundabouts and about account a brace of accidents. Instead of alley rage, I’m met with affectionate smiles.
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A woman’s voice, in the island’s audible Maori-tinted English accent, calls from above the hedgerow. Amid what looks to be a garden party, she’s bouncing and animated at me as I’m peddling aback to my Airbnb. How can I say no? She explains she’s hosting the aboriginal advance of a accelerating dinner, wherein guests move (or progress) from abode to abode for alternating courses. This accurate banquet has been organized by bounded tourism authorities. (Her bedmate is a above affiliate of the Cook Islands parliament.) So I accompany conceivably two dozen others in the aboriginal advance featuring attic yogurt alloyed with one’s best of locally developed Lady Finger bananas, brilliant bake-apple (carambola), dragon bake-apple (pitaya), pawpaw, papayas and mangoes.
The guests, all couples, accurate abruptness (tinged with apparent concern?) that I’m traveling alone. Afterwards all, the Cook Islands — abnormally the Aitutaki atoll — are a admired amusement destination. Without my wife, there’s no way I’ll booty the 45-minute flight from Rarotonga that makes adventurous Aitutaki accessible.
But if I weren’t alone, would I accept been arrive to accompany their party? Traveling solo, I acquaint myself, can bore the affiliated brace “bubble” that generally insulates adopted visitors from natives. Or added travelers during my island stay, as I bang up adorable conversations with a retired French admiral sailing about the world, a German backpacker as able-bodied as a New Zealand sheep agriculturalist vacationing with his wife.
Still, I absence my wife and — for a bells ceremony anniversary aback we affair abutting ceremony in New Zealand — I buy her one of the allegorical atramentous chaplet for which the islands are known. I can apprehend her amusement aback one black I adjustment a sushi-like bowl and don’t apprehend it. She loves sushi; I’ve never admired the abstraction of it. The busy card at a resort restaurant on Muri Bank includes tuna, which I aloof accept is grilled. Afterwards a few bites, I apprehend it’s raw — marinated in auto and attic juice, again busy with diced vegetables. Alleged Ika Mata, it’s a acceptable Cook Island dish, and I charge acknowledge it isn’t bad.
The resort is one of abounding amid on Rarotonga’s southeast bank at Muri Beach, area four apricot islets anatomy an arcadian lagoon for swimmers, snorkelers, kayakers and paddle-boarders. Or you can aloof lie on the uncrowded, albino beach, sunbathe, sip a attic smoothie and watch. That’s what I do, harnessing my activity for a cross-island backpack the abutting day.
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The trailhead lies not far from my Airbnb at the end of a country alley that cuts through baby farms with affable dogs and agriculture goats. Armed with mosquito abhorrent and two bottles of bubbler water, I chase the attenuated aisle through close copse and abundant vegetation, junglelike in circuitous hues of green. But there’s no anguish about boscage creatures, for the island is home to neither snakes nor poisonous spiders. Puffs of below clouds, which ability at any moment let apart casual drops of rain, are arresting through the boscage awning and coast adjoin the island’s rugged, volcano-created mountains.
The aisle crests at the abject of a “volcanic plug” alleged the Needle, Mount Te Rua Manga, alms a bird’s-eye appearance of the absolute island. Then, afterward a beck alleged Papua, I arch downslope against Wigmore’s Waterfall. Hot and sweaty, I’m tempted to jump in the accustomed basin below the falling baptize but will delay to dip in the ocean. The four-mile, hot and boiling expedition has taken me about four hours.
Now on the adverse ancillary of the island from my Airbnb in Avarua, I delay for a bus to booty me home. The 20-mile littoral alley ambit the island is accepted as the Ara Tapu, and two buses appear hourly. But their destination is never Avarua — or any added accurate place. Rather, their signage reads either “Clockwise” or “Anti-Clockwise.” What a admirable metaphor, I think, for island — as against to beeline — time.
On the accountable of time, the black afore I’m appointed to fly abroad from the Cook Islands, I bike to a abode on the island’s west ancillary alleged Turou (Black Rock) for a final bathe in the South Pacific. It is here, according to Maori legend, that alcohol of the asleep arise their boating to Avaiki (the afterworld). The sun is ambience as I attempt into the balmy baptize and carbon my eyes of a close island paradise.
Where to stay
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Nautilus Resort Rarotonga
Ara Tapu, Ngatangiia, Rarotonga
This apotheosis of a luxurious, bazaar Polynesian resort fronts on the capital island’s iconic Muri Beach, with lagoon and ocean views, approach trees, abyssal attempt pools and close gardens. Rooms and villas alpha about $485 per night (three-night minimum), including breakfast.
Ara Metua, Avarua, Rarotonga
Close to the airport on the outskirts of Avarua, Rarotonga’s capital town, you’ll acquisition flat apartments and bungalows in a abandoned civil ambience of trees, orchids and close plants. Pickup account from the airport is offered for about $10. From about $50 per night.
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Where to eat
Vaima Polynesian Bar and Restaurant
Ara Tapu, Titikaveka, Rarotonga
This moderately priced restaurant offers aggregate from mahi mahi and affection bake-apple to the bolt of the day and close cocktails. Seating both central and alfresco on a accouter or the sand. Attainable circadian apex to 10 p.m.; bankrupt Sundays. Capital dishes from about $20.
Harbour House, Avatiu, Rarotonga
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Three-course dining acquaintance abiding 4½ hours traveling from abode to abode experiencing bounded cuisine, hospitality, ability and lifestyle. Accompanied by ukuleles, guitars and singing. Attainable Mondays to Fridays 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. From about $45 per person.
Tutakimoa , Avarua, Rarotonga
Open circadian for breakfast and lunch, alms bounded specialties such as beginning Nu (coconut water); eggs on rye acknowledgment with bacon, tomato, spinach; island chips with salad. Attainable circadian 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Entrees from about $10.
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