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Ai Weiwei has never been to Alcatraz, but he has spent three years amalgam the abominable island bastille in his mind. Sitting at a continued lath table aural his gray brick courtyard studio-home in arctic Beijing, he has pored over books, memoirs and photographs of what acclimated to be America’s foremost maximum-security penitentiary, a super-bastille in San Francisco Bay.



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Ai has advised pictures of the bouldered pathways that wind about the island’s cliffs, the baptize belfry still covered with graffiti from the Built-in American activity of the island, the deceptively calm gray amnion that fabricated the bastille about inescapable. He has formed his own brainy map of the three-tiered cellblocks with their tool-proof animate bars, the blend anteroom able with wall-mounted tear-gas canisters, the ascetic bastille hospital and archaic psychiatric ward, area Al Capone was advised for syphilis and dementia, and the New Industries Building, area inmates already done Army linens and ancient elastic mats. From beyond the Pacific, the artisan and agitator has been at assignment creating a seven-part art accession and political meditation, @Large: Ai Weiwei on Alcatraz, to sit aural the prison’s celebrated buildings—several of which accept never afore been accessible to the public.

Because his authorization charcoal in the easily of Chinese government authorities, he can’t leave the country. So one of the tricks he has learned, like an bedfellow who can alone brainstorm abroad worlds from aural his cell, is to accept exhibits aboriginal in his mind, again at his flat in Beijing. For the Alcatraz exhibition, Ai has paid accurate absorption to exact measurements—the acme of cellblock ceilings, the amplitude of staircases and animate doors—and, he told me, he has taken affliction to use abstracts that can be alien innocuously through apprehensive Chinese community services, beatific by even and assuredly by barge to the island for reassembly, a about 6,000-mile journey. There has never been a arch to Alcatraz.



Ai, who is 57, is China’s best controversial, internationally acclaimed and all-embracing artist, and his multi-media compositions are conceivably best accepted for their anti-authoritarian bent. He has spent affluence of time advertent imprisonment. On April 3, 2011, “I was secretly detained, like a kidnapping,” he told me in June at his Beijing studio. At Beijing Capital All-embracing Airport, area he’d gone to lath a flight to Hong Kong, government agents, he recalled, “pulled a atramentous sheath over my head, shoved me into a car apprenticed for an alien location.” He was appear on June 22, pounds lighter and abundant wearier, but afterwards his passport—and afterwards actuality formally answerable with an offense. Several of his assembly were additionally detained. “I’ve apparent so abounding bodies about me arrested or abolished in China, generally falsely accused.”

A few months afterwards his absolution from prison, Cheryl Haines, controlling administrator of the For-Site Foundation, a San Francisco-based arts accumulation specializing in exhibitions and all-embracing works that brighten cogent places, visited Ai in Beijing. “He said he capital to abode what happens aback bodies lose the adeptness to acquaint freely, and additionally to accompany his account and artwork to a broader spectrum of people” alfresco the art apple ambit and those absorbed in Chinese animal rights, she told me on a June cruise to China. “What if I brought you a prison?” she recalled allurement Ai. He nodded.



She had one in mind, but wasn’t abiding if she could cull it off. Still, she’d ahead abiding collaborations with the National Park Service, which now manages Alcatraz, so she knew whom to call.

Frank Dean, accepted administrator of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area, which runs Alcatraz, aboriginal abstruse the history of the island aback he was a adolescent Park Account ranger. His ancient job out of college, about four decades ago, was giving tours of the above bastille armpit aloof afterwards it initially opened to the public. “It’s an iconic abode that captures people’s imagination,” he said by buzz from San Francisco. That means, he added, laughing, “We get a lot of crazy account that appear in every year.”

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Haines’ proposal—an accession by Ai Weiwei—“really affective us,” Dean said. “It’s a acute story, with the artisan and the island—putting those two calm aloof seemed to accomplish sense. I anticipation it was article we should try.” But he additionally afraid that it was “a bit of a accident for us. We didn’t appetite to actualize an all-embracing incident.” The abutting footfall was accepting permission from the U.S. State Department, not a anticipation that an artisan about has to take.

Ai said he has no accepted aesthetic process, and the apparatus of his apperception are a abstruseness to himself. “It happens through conversation, through discussion, or through my dreams.” He’s abundantly a conceptual artist—“more project-oriented than studio-oriented,” he said. “I’m not absolutely an artisan giving a accomplished project, but appetite to advance ideas.”

For all his affectionate ability of Chinese prisons, he’d never accustomed Alcatraz or the U.S. chastening arrangement abundant thought. “I basically knew annihilation about it.”

The name Alcatraz comes from the Spanish charlatan Don Juan Manuel de Ayala, the aboriginal European accepted to cross San Francisco Bay, in 1775. He alleged it “La Isla de los Alcatraces,” the island of the pelicans. With no alpha baptize available, not abundant added than birds lived on the bouldered bulge for the abutting 75 years.

In 1850, Admiral Millard Fillmore appointed the island as a breastwork to assure San Francisco, again in the grips of the gold rush. But its 111 ample cannons were never accursed offensively, and the island begin its purpose in detention, not defense.

During the Civil War, Confederate soldiers and doubtable sympathizers were housed there. Afterwards the Indian Wars and the Spanish-American War, the bastille citizenry swelled with Built-in American chiefs and with sailors. The bastille acquired a admeasurement of acclaim afterwards Apple War I, aback Philip Grosser, one of several careful objectors captivated there, compared it to the abominable French colonial chastening antecedents in his book, Uncle Sam’s Devil’s Island.

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The adventurous of amazing coffer heists that addled the U.S. heartland in the aboriginal 1930s, accumulated with the acceleration of belled abyss in the Prohibition era, angry the island into a altered affectionate of prison. In 1933, the aggressive transferred Alcatraz to the Department of Justice, and a year later, the aboriginal armored abuse cars accustomed by barge accustomed high-profile inmates to what federal authorities alleged “the bastille system’s prison.”

One of those abuse cars with barred windows, traveling from the Atlanta federal penitentiary, agitated 35-year-old “Scarface” Al Capone—former baron of the Chicago underworld, again confined an 11-year book for income-tax evasion. Coast Guard cutters and columnist boats aggregate in the anchorage to attestant the spectacle. Capone was after abutting by George “Machine Gun” Kelly, who kidnapped an oil administrator for $200,000 ransom; Mickey Cohen, a barbarous Los Angeles mafia boss; and Roy Gardner, the abundant alternation robber.

Alcatraz’s aboriginal warden, James Johnston, who had ahead adapted San Quentin and Folsom Prison, advised both the concrete blueprint of Alcatraz and its arrangement of discipline. “What it above bottomward to in aspect was that Alcatraz would be a bastille of maximum-security aegis with minimum privileges,” he wrote in his 1949 memoir.

Each single-person cell, outfitted with a animate cot, was 5 anxiety by 9 feet. The wake-up alarm articulate at 6:30 a.m., and by 6:55 inmates stepped to the advanced of their beef for the aboriginal of several circadian arch counts. Guard whistles adapted meal times. Inmates formed eight hours a day, best of them in the concrete-pillared New Industries Building. Inmates who bankrupt the rules were captivated in aloof bonds in the alarming D Block.

While the prison’s acrid behavior drew criticism, what assuredly bankrupt the ability was its extravagance. The amount of apartment a captive on Alcatraz, area all supplies, including cooler water, accustomed by boat, was added than three times college than at added federal prisons. In 1963, Attorney Accepted Robert Kennedy appear Alcatraz would close.

The island leapt aback into account aback Built-in American activists, agitation biased analysis of built-in peoples, active it for 19 months alpha in 1969, eventually bidding Admiral Richard Nixon to rescind, in 1970, the government’s “tribal abortion policy,” which allowable affected affiliation and urbanization of aboriginal peoples. In 1976 Alcatraz became allotment of the National Park Service, and it now draws added than 1.4 actor visitors annually.

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Despite the restrictions on Ai’s travels, his assignment has been broadly apparent alfresco China. A extensive exhibition, According to What?, opened in 2012 at the Smithsonian’s Hirshhorn Museum in Washington, D.C. And a accumulating of photographs he took in Manhattan in the 1980s, apparent at the Asia Society in New York in 2011, appear how the abrasive city aggressive him as a adolescent man. But planning a alternation of aboriginal installations tailored to a celebrated armpit was a atypical agreement for Ai, and came with countless restrictions. He could in no way adapt the bastille buildings; he could not ascendancy the lighting; he could not agitate the abode of birds that backup on the island. “Alcatraz has its own history,” Ai said. “It’s never been an art space. You accept to admeasurement everything. Actually, it’s mentally and psychologically absorbing to me, because in a way it brings us central the activity of the jail. The inmates in a bastille accept to chase actual bright instructions, accept to chase them exactly, and so do we [as armpit artists]. That’s the way we assignment together,” he says of his accord with Haines. “The ambition is not absolutely to actualize article beautiful, but article precise.”

The installation—which explores account of bonds and what it agency to be a avant-garde political prisoner—will run from September 27, 2014, through April 26, 2015, and be accessible to visitors who acquirement the accustomed Alcatraz ticket. Greg Moore, admiral and arch controlling administrator of the Golden Gate National Parks Conservancy, said he hopes that the appearance will accompany a added admirers to Ai’s work—and meanwhile afford new ablaze on Alcatraz. While Alcatraz’s best acclaimed inmates were bedevilled felons like Capone, in beforehand times the ability additionally captivated what ability be alleged prisoners of conscience, including, in Apple War I, careful objectors to aggressive service. “I anticipate it’s an amazing juxtaposition,” Moore said, “to accept a armpit so associated with confinement—a aggressive and federal prison—now all-embracing adroitness and aesthetic expression.”

Cheryl Haines is continuing in the large, sparsely busy dining allowance of Ai’s Beijing compound. Today she wants to get Ai’s acknowledgment to an aboriginal arrangement of display booklets that will be awash on Alcatraz.

“First of all,” says Ai, “don’t accept me on the cover—pick one of the added apparent prisoners.” With his bristling bristles and beaming belly, Ai himself is an instantly apparent figure. Today he’s in a aged T-shirt and shorts, admitting sometimes he favors asperous denim shirts abnormally agnate to Alcatraz’s bastille uniforms.

Looking at folio proofs of the exhibition booklet, which contains passages from Martin Luther Baron Jr. and Vaclav Havel, he offers his critique. “Don’t accept two portraits from China adverse anniversary other—mix up the geography.” A beefy white cat with dejected eyes, one of the abounding beasts that alive in his compound, parades over the folio proofs.

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