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Several years ago, a acquaintance let me in on a secret. It was Passover and, while I adulation matzoh assurance as abundant as anyone, I was appetite noodles for my craven soup. Did I know, my acquaintance wondered, about bootleg Passover egg noodles?
I regrettably (and embarrassingly, because I address Jewish cookbooks for a living) did not. But the assize of Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine is abounding with untold treasures, including a artlessly gluten-free brainstorm so adorable it would anon become allotment of my year-round repertoire.
In a moment of necessity-driven comestible ingenuity, home cooks in Eastern Europe accomplished that blintz wrappers — the crepe-like pancakes acclimated to accomplish blintzes — could be broken into a rustic approximation of lokshen (Yiddish for noodles).
The aureate abrade about acclimated to accomplish blintzes is banned during Passover, so bodies aerated up a attenuate concoction fabricated from eggs, potato starch, baptize and alkali instead. They again absurd the concoction in hot skillets to anatomy thin, ablaze amber pancakes. The pancakes were again formed up like a clabber cycle and cut angular (think a basil chiffonade), creating advanced ribbons that could be beeline and slipped into bowls of aureate craven broth.
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With a acidity and bite carefully akin ample egg noodles, this Passover “pappardelle” added than annoyed my blurred cravings. I fabricated a bifold accumulation and acquiescently slurped them in extra soup all anniversary long.
After the anniversary ended, I started artful for added excuses to accomplish them. I tinkered with the Old World formula, abacus a scattering of cautiously arena almond abrade to lighten their arrangement and accommodate a adumbration of the sweet, nuttiness you acquisition in semolina-based pastas. I cut them thinner, like fettuccine, and occasionally skipped the jelly-rolling footfall altogether, chopping the blintz wrappers into freeform, farfalle-like pieces.
With a simple glossy of marinara, or a dosage of olive oil-thinned pesto, I apparent that the noodles transcend their holiday-specific roots. I would brainstorm the analysis of an calmly gluten-free beginning pasta would be decidedly adorable to bodies who abandon gluten or atom from their diets. But they accept becoming a atom on the table in gluten-friendly households like abundance as well.
Making any blazon of beginning pasta at home is a activity — a brainwork on rest, roll, repeat. In this case, the action isn’t complicated and doesn’t crave appropriate equipment, such as a pasta roller, but it does booty a little patience.
I like to about-face on music or a podcast and achieve into the accent of bouncing the concoction about a hot pan, again sliding the wrappers assimilate a acid lath to briefly blow afore I cycle them up and allotment them into noodles. Once unfurled, the consistent pasta is delicate, concentrated and absolutely account the effort. And clashing best beginning pastas, which crave a assignment in a pot of baking baptize (albeit a briefer one than dried), these noodles are accessible to use appropriate abroad after any added cooking.
The noodles are adorable as is — I generally adore bathrobe them with annihilation added than absolute adulate and a blanket of Parmesan. But they additionally allure affluence of experimentation. You could acidity the concoction with a baptize of broiled thyme and minced beginning rosemary, or a compression of bawdy saffron. Left whole, the blintz bedding could serve as the abject for lasagna. And they flash aback commutual with a bright, vegetable-forward sauce.
In the spring, I usually accomplish a pan of sauteed shallots and mushrooms aggressive with beginning basil and a battery of auto bite and Parmesan.
But any array of springtime vegetables — anticipate broiled asparagus, afresh shelled peas or fava beans or buttery sauteed leeks — would assignment well. In the autumn or winter, a compact Bolognese or buttery cacio e pepe vibe would be aloof right.
My Ashkenazi abundant grandmother apparently wouldn’t admit these takes on archetypal Passover noodles. But sometimes attitude tastes alike bigger aback it has a adventitious to breathe.
Gluten-Free Pappardelle With Mushrooms
These noodles are fabricated with almond abrade and potato starch. The pappardelle abandoned booty about an hour to adapt and could be acclimated with any booze or basin that calls for such pasta.
FOR THE NOODLES
1/2 cup (2 ounces) almond flour
1/2 cup (scant 3 ounces) potato starch (not the aforementioned as potato flour)
1 teaspoon adequate salt
3/4 cup water
3 ample eggs, agilely beaten
Vegetable oil, for frying
FOR THE MUSHROOMS
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 ample shallots (3 1/2 ounces total), cautiously diced
8 ounces beginning cremini mushrooms, stemmed and cautiously diced
1/3 cup vegetable broth
1/4 cup beginning basil leaves, cut into chiffonade (thin strips)
1/2 teaspoon cautiously grated auto zest
Freshly arena atramentous pepper
Grated Parmesan cheese, for serving
Make the noodles: In a average bowl, barrel calm the almond flour, potato starch and salt. Barrel in the baptize and eggs until bland and absolutely combined. The concoction should be aloof a blow thicker than abundant cream. Let the concoction blow for 15 minutes.
In an 8-inch nonstick frying pan over average heat, calefaction about 1 teaspoon of the vegetable oil until shimmering. Pour a bare 1/4 cup of the concoction into the pan and agitate it in all admonition to covering the basal analogously with a attenuate band of batter. Cook, after flipping, until the basal is aureate and the centermost is aloof dry, about 1 minute.
Using an account spatula, alteration the ache to a acid lath to air-conditioned slightly. Cycle it up like a clabber roll, again allotment into 1/4-inch advanced noodles. Echo with the actual batter, abacus added oil as bare and whisking the concoction in amid crepes. Unroll the noodles into continued ribbons and set abreast while authoritative the mushrooms. (The compound makes about 10 crepes, or about 12 ounces of beginning noodles.)
Make the mushrooms: In a ample saute pan over average heat, calefaction the olive oil and baker the adulate until the adulate starts to foam. Add the shallots and a acceptable compression of alkali and cook, active occasionally, until ashen and agilely brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook, active often, until mushrooms are aureate and best of their aqueous has evaporated, 8 to 10 minutes.
Add the broth, basil, auto bite and a acceptable bulk of atramentous pepper; accompany to a simmer and baker until the aqueous has bargain slightly, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the noodles and acclaim bung with the booze until coated.
Taste and add added alkali and pepper, if desired.
Transfer the noodles to confined plates, baptize with Parmesan and serve.
Recipe from cookbook columnist and aliment biographer Leah Koenig.
Tested by Ann Maloney; email questions to [email protected]
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Calories: 364; Absolute Fat: 23 g; Saturated Fat: 5 g; Cholesterol: 147 mg; Sodium: 520 mg; Carbohydrates: 30 g; Dietary Fiber: 3 g; Sugars: 4 g; Protein: 10 g.
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