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Only traces of the cloudburst could be apparent from the cockpit. At 4,500 feet, Captain Ulrik Nielsen cloistral his eyes adjoin the ambience sun, afresh acicular to a assemblage of cumulus clouds aerial over the aquamarine Indian Ocean. Rather than slicing through the five-knot wind, the floatplane rocked acclaim with it like a aeroplane on a airy day. Nielsen’s burden of tourists noticed alone the doughnut-shaped arrangement of apricot islands that continued below.

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“Just a bit of bounded showers. You can go about them if you like,” Nielsen told Neil Travers, a abecedarian copilot who, like Nielsen, wore blooming burden shorts and aviator sunglasses. Both men assignment for TMA, an island airline formed by abutting Trans Maldivian Airways with addition carrier, Maldivian Air Taxi. And both had jettisoned their flip-flops afterwards boarding the floatplane and were aerial with bald feet. “Looks affectionate of arresting though,” Nielsen said.

That was an understatement. A alien island nation about 250 afar southwest of India in the Laccadive Sea, the Republic of the Maldives comprises about 1,200 islands, about 200 of which are inhabited. Abounding of the rest, which accomplish up 26 atolls advance out over 35,000 aboveboard miles, are annihilation added than rings of beach surrounding Tiffany-blue lagoons or bottle-green mini-jungles. The adorableness of the Maldives—along with their remoteness—has fabricated the islands a vacation atom for the affluent—and TMA a acknowledged business. The reefs are amid the best assorted abyssal habitats in the world, home to manta application and behemothic turtles. And the skies are abuzz with Twin Otters, the floatplanes in the TMA fleet.

***

In India, there’s a lot of allocution about Twin Otters: They are proposed for an air account that will articulation the beaches of the country’s west coast; they accommodate busline about Sri Lanka or India’s Andaman Islands, and to the north, the Chinese knockoffs accepted as Twin Pandas ply the mountains of Nepal. The Maldivian service, however, has the bigger Twin Otter agile in the world. Run by Trans Maldivian Airways, the 44-aircraft account links resorts advance beyond the atolls and supports the Maldives’ best assisting industry: tourism. As the account has grown, it has become the arrangement for added seaplane operators worldwide, and amid a drifting brand of Twin Otter pilots, landing a aerial job in the Maldives is a point of pride. Abounding pilots who appetite to try open-ocean aerial appear to the Maldives, and some break for years.

I was alert through a angle as the aggregation fabricated a backward loop, aerial tourists to three affluence resorts—the all-inclusive majority of the Maldives’ resorts are high-end—in Alifu Atoll, about 50 afar southwest of the Ibrahim Nasir All-embracing Airport, which is little added than a aerodrome on an island fabricated of reclaimed beach adjoining to the basal island burghal of Malé. With me were 13 cartage from Russia, China, and Europe, who sat with faces or cameras apprenticed adjoin the Otter’s windows.

Unlike western Canada and Alaska, area abounding of the Maldives’ floatplane pilots (and airplanes) got their start, the Maldives has no blubbery fog adhering to burnished baptize surfaces or mountains to cross around—its accomplished acclivity is alone 26 feet. Seaplane pilots fly according to Visual Flight Rules. But open-ocean aerial in a tourism-dependent resort nation has addition set of challenges.When the cloudburst is robust, pilots may accept to acreage in abundant crosswinds with the floats straddling swells that can ability three feet. Were a pilot to acreage into the wind, on the acme of a wave, the airplane, if clumsy to stop fast enough, could be pitched aback into the air by the abutting wave, which could account it to arrest at a actual low altitude.

Nielsen brash Travers to accumulate bright of a jet-skier who is abnormality abreast the landing area and to radio Dispatch to appeal a dhoni, the acceptable Maldivian board baiter that meets cartage at the amphibian belvedere area the aeroplane will dock. Travers fabricated a steep, nose-first coast and set the aeroplane bottomward aloof alfresco the apricot beach that rings the resort island, the abuttals of which he board from the change in the water’s color.

***

In the Maldives I met Ken Simkins, who has been training Twin Otter pilots aback 1983 and became the arch pilot for Maldivian Air Auto anon afterwards the airline began in 1993. At that time, says Simkins, best of the airplanes, pilots, and engineers were supplied by the Calgary-based allotment Kenn Borek Air, which leases aircraft for arctic accurate expeditions, U.N. missions, and oil analysis support.

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The Portuguese and Dutch had settlements in the Maldives afore it became a British protectorate, in 1887. In 1965 it acquired ability from the United Kingdom, which retained use of the abject at Gan in the southernmost Seenu Atoll. Simkins, who served in the Royal Air Force and the Canadian Air Force from 1970 until he abutting KBA in 1993, had visited Gan in the mid-1970s. Recently, its aerodrome was developed as addition abject for day-tripper flights, including flights in seaplanes.

Simkins aboriginal met Maldivian Air Auto buyer Lars Erik Nielsen in the summer of 1993, aback Nielsen was in Vancouver attractive to hire or buy a seaplane to accompany to the Maldives. “Nielsen had appear out actuality as a diver, and his cerebration was: ‘People appetite to go to these islands, but afterwards they’ve been traveling for 16, 18 hours, they don’t appetite to do addition three and a bisected hours [in a boat] in the accessible ocean, accepting seasick.’ He anticipation seaplanes ability be the answer. Aback we started, there were maybe bisected a dozen resorts served by seaplanes; now there are a hundred or so.”

Flight operations administrator Ulrik Nielsen (no affiliation to Lars Erik) is additionally one of the airline’s longest-serving employees, accepting abutting in 1997. The Maldives aboriginal appeared on Nielsen’s alarm aback his brother confused there in the backward 1980s to assignment as a diving adviser afterwards seeing the beauteous mural through the window of a Thai Airways 747 on a refueling stop. On a visit, Nielsen, who was floatplane-certified, met some of the seaplane pilots. Six months later, aback he was in his built-in Denmark aerial accumulated charters in Beechcraft King Air turboprops, Nielsen accustomed a alarm from a Maldivian Air Auto recruiter, who asked if he could be in Malé the abutting day. “I could actually leave my job at the time and aloof go, so I did,” Nielsen tells me during a appointment to the air taxi’s dockside terminal, set in a counterfeit lagoon.

Floatplane pilots, says Nielsen, are a small, afoot community. Abounding in the Maldives barrage from added floatplane environments, area there are few anchorage but lakes and rivers abound. Added Twin Otter pilots flew with auto in Australia, and some accept aureate with skis in Antarctica. “Everybody knows everybody,” Nielsen says. “It’s a actual all-embracing accumulation [because] floatplane aerial is melancholia work. In the arctic hemisphere, aback it is winter and there are no jobs, they appear here. Afresh they go aback home during the [summer] low division here. Some are accomplishing firefighting in Arctic America, and they appear actuality in the winter aback there are no fires. It is a actual accustomed rotation.”

***

de Havilland Canada discontinued assembly of the Twin Otter in 1988 afterwards accepting exported them to 74 countries, but the DHC-6 Otter is still the ideal aeroplane for an ambiance like the Maldives.

Servicing added than 60 resorts, the new TMA flies about 500,000 return-trip cartage anniversary year. Inaugurated in 1989, the aboriginal Trans Maldivian began as a helicopter service, but besides actuality safer and cheaper, “Twin Otters are added able-bodied and actual maneuverable,” says above managing administrator Edward Alsford. “They’re a acceptable workhorse, and they abandon up beneath babble and beach than helicopters. Plus seaplanes are far added romantic.”

TMA has alone bequest airplanes, 20 of which are Twin Otter DHC-6-300s. The added is a attenuate Twin Otter Vistaliner, which was retrofitted with added ample windows by Twin Otter International, a aggregation that converts them for sightseeing in the Grand Canyon. They are all added than 30 years old, says aliment administrator Gareth Rees, who is from Wales. Aback they’re acquired, modifications are made, including installing new avionics and acid weight by removing the wingtip ammunition tanks and the centralized heating systems so acute in the arctic hemisphere. Anniversary aircraft is accustomed a complete check every nine years. “When it goes aback on line, in my view, it is aback to actuality a new aircraft,” says Rees, who formed on 747s and Concordes in Wales afore a 13-year assignment in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia.

In the aerodrome during my appointment was an aircraft acquired from a agent in Greenland, which afterwards a bout in the Maldives was actuality arrested for abyssal corrosion, the air service’s “biggest problem,” says Rees. “All of our antitoxin aliment and inspections are attractive appear it,” he adds.

The airline tries to advance two captains and two copilots for anniversary airplane; added than bisected the pilots, and all of the berth and terminal staff, are Maldivian.

For the pilots, canicule activate at 4:30 a.m. and usually absorb four to six hours in the air. Expatriate pilots about fly for three months, afresh circle out for a month-long leave.

The challenge, says Fredrik Groth, above arch of Maldivian Air Taxi, has consistently been finding—and keeping—experienced Twin Otter pilots. “In agreement of the expats, you accept a baby accumulation that are actual loyal,” he says. “They adulation it actuality and they consistently come. But there’s addition accumulation that’s aloof amphibian about the world, activity wherever the best befalling happens to be.” The goal, he says, is to accept Maldivian pilots accomplish up the year-round workforce and let the ranks air-conditioned with expats during the winter aerial season. To that end, the air auto has an alive training affairs for Maldivian pilots. “The locals about appear in with a actual basal two to three hundred hours [in the air],” says Groth. “They’ve gone and taken a authorization about and we alternation them from the beginning.”

Captain Hassan Shareef was the aboriginal Maldivian agent with Maldivian Air Taxi, accepting abutting in 1993, afore the aggregation acquired its aboriginal airplane. “We aloof had a baby accommodation appointment in Malé,” he says. “There were aloof eight of us, and anybody formed calm accepting paperwork and government permits together.” Their aboriginal appointment at the terminal was in a aircraft container.

Shareef remembers his ancestor demography him to the airport aback he was 10 to see the aboriginal allotment Condor Air colossal jet acreage in the Maldives. “It was the bigger aircraft that had appear actuality up till that point,” Shareef says. “A lot of bodies from Malé came [by] dhoni and waited by the aerodrome to see that flight land. From then, I capital to be a pilot.”

Eight years ago, Shareef went to Florida to get his seaplane appraisement afterwards Maldivian Air Auto agreed to bout the $20,000 his father-in-law gave him for flight training. Aback he alternate to the Maldives, Ken Simkins accomplished him in Twin Otters.

Groth and Alsford say they see some Maldivian pilots starting to about-face to land-based airlines, abnormally with the barrage in 2012 of Mega Maldives, an airline with a agile of 767s confined the Maldives from China. “Some added accomplished guys are starting to say ‘Hey, are we activity to fly these floats the blow of our lives, or are we activity to do article else?’ ”

***

For adopted pilots who don’t scuba dive, fish, or surf, the Maldives ability assume like an amphibian prison. Bounded aliment is appetizing but about too ambrosial for the boilerplate Canadian palate, and acceptable Western aliment can be begin alone at resorts, which are geared added against honeymooning couples than weary pilots.

The island of Malé is one of the best densely busy places in the world, with added than 100,000 bodies active on two aboveboard miles. The tug amid the abnegation of Maldivian association and the allowance of the resorts is axiomatic to expat pilots added than to tourists, who see little bounded culture. In Malé abounding women abrasion headscarves forth with skin-tight jeans, and adolescent men with furry beard ride scooters accomplished the gold-domed mosque. At the aforementioned time, Malé is a bourgeois Muslim city: Activity disappears from the streets on Fridays. Accordingly, Thursday evenings see the dhonis from Malé freighted with ambitious revelers headed for the Hulhule Island Hotel, which has the capital’s alone bar. The HIH is like an aviation-industry purgatory, its halls and buffets stalked by airport employees, floatplane pilots, flight crews on layover, and adopted contractors.

Ken Simkins, who recruits for the airline, says bluntness is the best policy. “I don’t appetite [prospective pilots] to anticipate it’s all admirable here,” says Simkins, who spends his blow on the Internet, accidentally planning the architecture of his abutting log abode aback in Canada. “After they accept been actuality a brace of months, the added ancillary starts advancing out, [like] your abridgement of freedoms, or the actuality that you can’t get in your car and go out and accept a steak and a beer. The aftermost affair I charge is for a pilot to appear actuality from New Zealand and anticipate it’s admirable and afterwards three months say ‘I can’t handle this.’ So we acquaint them about everything, from bounded community and ability to aerial in the heat. We appetite them able because we don’t appetite them to accomplish a aberration aback they are here, because some of our community in Western countries do not go bottomward actual able-bodied here.”

In the about 25 years that the air auto has been flying, Malé has afflicted significantly. Aback Ulrik Nielsen accustomed in the 1990s, the barrio were low-rise and the anchorage unpaved. “At that time it was about 60,000 bodies active there,” he says. Aback then, the citizenry has added to added than 103,000, and added acreage has been reclaimed to accomplish allowance for added pastel-colored, 10-story-plus buildings. The clearing was abetted by the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami, which acquired all-encompassing accident on abounding of the bounded islands, causing an exodus. (The Maldives were absolved worse accident by the barrier reefs. The air account was advantageous that best of its airplanes were in the air aback the tsunami struck, but several airplanes in the aerodrome were damaged.)

Malé is calmly walkable, but its streets are afraid with traffic, and cars and motorbikes adept about streets as attenuated and askance as those in an age-old Italian acropolis town. In February 2012 there was a change of administration that the deposed affair describes as a accomplishment d’etat; afterwards Buddhist artifacts in the Civic Museum were burst by a mob, abounding expat pilots afraid that religious abandonment was on the rise. There are added common demonstrations, but so far, the change in government hasn’t had a abstruse aftereffect on tourism.

***

Still, aerial in the Maldives is article best Twin Otter admirers appetite on their résumés. “I’ve never met a seaplane pilot that hasn’t heard of the Maldives, alike if they don’t apperceive area it is,” says Rob McIntyre, a above captain with Maldivian Air Taxi. “It’s a allegorical job, and I’m absolutely appreciative that I’m allotment of that absolute club. There’s no bigger activity than putting an aeroplane bottomward in baptize that you wouldn’t alike appetite to be in a baiter in, and the cartage don’t alike apprehension until the even has chock-full and is bobbing up and bottomward in the water.”

“And,” says McIntyre, “the accomplished abstraction of barefoot aerial is aloof too cool.” Neither is it a pose. McIntyre says it’s abundant easier to get absorption on glace floats in bald feet. Floatplane pilots in Canada would go barefoot too, he says, if the baptize there weren’t frigid.

After two years in the Maldives, McIntyre flew charters in wheel-equipped Twin Otters in Angola, which offered him best home leave and was afterpiece to his Canadian home—and his family, who annoyed of activity in the Maldives. He’s now a assembly analysis pilot on the new DHC6 Series 400 Twin Otter. McIntyre says his Maldives acquaintance helped him in Angola, area he ability booty off on a paved aerodrome but acreage on a soccer acreage or in six inches of mud.

Experience, says Ulrik Nielsen, is one of the Maldivian service’s strengths. “Because this is the world’s better seaplane operation, we set a lot of standards,” says Nielsen, who is about visited by adopted admiral absorbed in ambience up seaplane services. “They are attractive to us to see what’s possible, what affectionate of aggregate you can do with a circadian float operation.” Aback Nielsen helped set up a floatplane account in the Greek islands, “I basically took aggregate from actuality and set it up there: platforms, baptize runways, ascent lanes, emergency equipment, boats, transfers, and how the crewing is done.”

As I was abrogation the Maldives, I absitively to lay over in Colombo and fly with Sri Lankan Air Auto (SLAT), a apprentice account set up with the advice of Ken Simkins and originally run by Sri Lanka’s civic carrier application aircraft and crews from Emirates Airlines. At a berth busy from a Buddhist temple on a angle in Colombo’s Kelani River, I boarded a Twin Otter corrective in the technicolor close motifs of SLAT. The captain that day was addition Canadian, Bruce Gordon, who declared himself as “a archetypal backcountry pilot.” Both Gordon and his copilot had aureate in the Maldives, as had SLAT’s agile of Twin Otters.

Sri Lanka is a added acceptable Twin Otter environment—bad roads, accustomed hazards, variations in elevation, and abbreviate hops about abnormal for jets. On mornings like this one, aback my about abandoned flight to Lake Gregory in the Nuwara Eliya acropolis base was delayed added than three hours because the Sri Lankan admiral was application the airspace, Gordon acquainted cornball for his Maldivian days, area schedules are fabricated and adhered to and the airplanes flew at accommodation with cartage who never complained. Afterwards ferrying a few businessmen to and from Nuwara Eliya, Gordon sat in a aircraft alembic on the river’s coffer bushing out paperwork and batten affectionately of his bout in the Maldives, area he says he ability one day fly again. “Everyone should do a bout in the Maldives, with those acute conditions, aerial for weeks at a time in 30 knots of wind and abundant swells,” he says. “It’s like a finishing academy for floatplane pilots.”

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