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FORT DODGE, Iowa (AP) — Ray Brown, of Fort Dodge, starts his day beforehand than best people.

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The 69-year-old buyer of Brownie’s Cafe, 1712 Central Ave., gets up and activity at about 1:30 a.m. And he doesn’t accept to go actual far to get to work.

“I alive in the back,” Brown said.

By 3 a.m., he starts baking the biscuit rolls and aliment that the bistro is accepted for.

Not too continued afterwards that the aboriginal chump arrives.

“My aboriginal chump is usually about 3 a.m.,” Brown said. “And he’s 92 years old.”

Nancy Brown, a longtime agent of no affiliation to the owner, calls him Albert.

“His absolute name is Alfred,” she said, apropos to the aboriginal chump of the day.

The Fort Dodge Messenger letters that Ray Brown, a U.S. Air Force veteran, started alive at Brownie’s Bistro afterwards he got out of the account in 1973. Brown was stationed in Anchorage, Alaska, and after in Washington, D.C.

“It was against the end of the Vietnam War, so they let a agglomeration of us get out early,” Brown said.

He’s appreciative to accept served.

“I anticipate everybody should do it,” he said. “It gives you a basal ‘how to booty commands and accord with people.’ That affectionate of thing.”

His mother, Elta Brown, started the bistro in 1968. It was aboriginal amid east of the accepted area and was allotment of a house. After it was confused to area Sue’s Draperies is located. The bistro begin its added abiding home in 1988, area it charcoal today.

Ray Brown’s father, Chet Brown, was a U.S. Marine during World War II. His parents met in California afore affective to Iowa.

His mother anesthetized abroad in 2012. His ancestor anesthetized abroad in 1997.

“We lived two or three years in Carroll afore we confused here,” Brown said.

Brown spent the aboriginal few years at Brownie’s as a waiter. Later, his mother accomplished him to cook.

“How to baker altered foods and accomplish the rolls and the bread,” Brown said. “How to get forth with people.”

He took over as buyer in 1977.

The bistro caters to the breakfast crowd.

“Our bootleg biscuit rolls are the big draw,” Brown said. “And best of our business is aboriginal morning. We accept some cafeteria (offerings), but that’s one of the genitalia that has collapsed bottomward over the years. That was afore all-you-can-eat started bent like crazy.”

The Brownie’s breakfast appropriate is eggs, potatoes, best of meat and a alcohol for $9.

“He makes a beggarly goulash,” Nancy Brown said. “A ham and cheese omelette with bootleg acknowledgment is popular, too.”

Nancy Brown is the restaurant’s alone agent abreast from Ray Brown. She started about 37 years ago.

“Three ancestors of my ancestors accept been aloft in here,” she said. “My kids and grandkids.”

Operating the bistro has been all about the people, Ray Brown said.

“They become family,” he said.

When COVID-19 affected the cease of the restaurant for about two months in the bounce of 2020, it was a difficult time.

“I assumption that was my vacation,” Ray Brown said. “We got 2 hours apprehension that we were activity to be bankrupt and that was aloof from the TV cogent us. And they never said how long. We didn’t apperceive aback we would be aback accessible again, so I had to scrinch and save.”

Brown said there aren’t actual abounding ancestors restaurants larboard in the city.

“There’s a lot added fast aliment places out now,” he said. “Where it’s the big money. There’s not too abounding ancestors restaurants left. Like Zakeers would be one. We would be addition one. Fast aliment you are aloof a number. Actuality you are people.”

He added, “We are appealing laid aback here. We don’t accept a lot of rules.”

When not working, one of Ray Brown’s admired contest of the year is Frontier Days.

“We adore Frontier Days because they band up on the artery out front,” Ray Brown said. “A lot of families adore that.”

Brown’s best acquaintance is a dog called Lou.

“She stays in the aback with me,” he said.

Brown has enjoyed accomplishing business in Fort Dodge.

“There’s appealing acceptable bodies in this boondocks and aloof alive everybody and alive the people,” he said. “Long as I can accumulate going, I’ll accumulate accomplishing it.”

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